#Lvl hanging beam span table professional#

I'm planning on using Simpson THA-218 hangers on mine (this is what was recommended by the lumber yard). Like you, the only thing above my joists is insulation and a roof, but this is still a really big deal.

#Lvl hanging beam span table professional#

If you have a Lumber yard close, use them! The guys who post regularly here know their stuff, and while they won't size the beam for you, their advice about getting a professional to help in sizing the beam is right on. He said that if I didn't want to use LVL, I'd have to use 3 - 2 x 12's, so be careful about your beam size.

I went to the local Lumber yard and they sized an LVL beam of 2 - 9 1/2' LVL's, 11' long. My house width is 25', while yours is 20', my beam length is 11', while yours is 10'. My situation is compounded by the fact that I'm not putting my beam over the joist splice, but otherwise very similar. I am by no means an expert, but going through a pretty similar situation as you. In short, if it stands up now, it can only be better when he's done the job. Sure, it's good to see a job well done and to know it will last indefinitely, but a balance has to be struck. We need to remember that the ceiling has been in its present condition for some time without collapsing, and that he only want this as a temporary fix. Many old houes like this have the ceiling supported mid-span by a few thin timber hangers casually naie to the ridge, and they stay up. I agree that he would only need one wall as temporary support.īut would he really need four 2xs and additional blocking? If his span is only 20ft, and the beam is only 10ft long, he is only supporting about 100 sq ft of ceiling, which is no great load.Īlso, a couple of the Simpson hangers to each connecion would be fine, again bearing in mind the low load at each connection. hanging stuff from beams is not really the way we usually do that type of support anymore so finding the straps may The type of joist strapping that is used for cgi floor systems is what you will need for the hangers. Also consider strong blocking at the walls the beam sits on and possible collar/rafter ties of sorts mid span that counter appose each other and butt into the edges of the beam to help from tipping. Because of the 6' beam spread it will give lateral tipping strength. If you are hanging the joists from the beam placed above them use 4 2xs to make the beam. If you are set against the design professional, consider oversizing the LVLs, installing them as a flush header, use joist hangers with the specified fasteners, post down the ends of the LVL, and block to the girder. You would benefit from an architect or engineer specifying a fix, you will know it is adequate and haveing the sealed and signed plan will resolve any questions when the next home inspector inspects when you sell the house. Generally screws do not resist shear forces as well as nails, and the hurricane ties are not designed to act as joist hangers. I am not sure I understand what you are proposing to do, but I think you are looking to use two 9 1/2' LVLs (or 2 X6s, I am not clear on this part) to span the distance where a bearing partition was removed the LVLs will be in the attic above the existing ceiling joists with each end of the LVLs bearing on partitions that take the load down to the girder in the basement and you will use hurricane ties to attach the joists to the LVL effectively hanging the joist from the LVL using screws. I took a week off of work to try and get this, among a few other things done right away when we get possession of the house. My ability to get more accurate measurements and pictures is zero until I actually move into the place. Is this going to be a killer project that I should just avoid by putting in an external header, or a flush header? Is this the best way to get the beams up in the attic? The beam will be about 3m (10').Ĭan I walk on the joists after I have the support walls built to get across to the other end where the beam will go? The joists currently will not support my weight. Attach the joists to the 2圆s using hurricane ties with some good screwsĬan I safely cut the hole through the lath and plaster without a lot of repair? I will likely put some plaster washers around the area I cut and do some serious scoring of the plaster with a utility knife first. Place the two 2圆s across the joists, securing them on the joists that are directly over the existing walls (or build up the wall header if the joist aren't directly overtop of the wall and attach to that)Ĥ. Construct 2 temporary support walls about 1m (3') apart on both sides of the work area and hammering in the vertical 2x4s to provide some extra stiffness before toenailing them in so they don't slip.ģ. Jack up the ceiling in the area I plan to work by about 2.5-3cm (1') using some type of jack with 2圆s to spread the weight on the floor and ceiling.Ģ. Any advice or comments would be awesome, here is what I'm going to do.ġ.